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is it easy replacing axles?

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Old 04-06-2003 | 10:12 AM
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EJ6 Civic's Avatar
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Default is it easy replacing axles?

Both of my front axles are shot and I only have 81,000 miles on my car. Does this sound about right? The boots ripped, leaked all the grease onto the inside rim of my new rota c8's.
I don't have alot of mechanical experience, but i work well with my hands, i figure things out easily. I have a haynes manual, don't know what tools i'll need though. Is this a fairly difficult process to replace them? Also how the hell do I go about getting the grease off of my rims?
Old 04-06-2003 | 10:17 AM
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Mileage is of no value when the boots are shredded The Haynes you have should detail the R&R for your axles and the tools needed to do so. As for the cleaning of the grease, wipe off all you can with rags, and take care of the rest with the wheel cleaner of your choice :thumbup:
Old 04-06-2003 | 10:21 AM
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CV boat outboard grease is a pain in the ass to clean.

the axles arent too hard either. jack the car up, put it on jackstands. Take both the wheels off, remove the cotterpin on the LCA, holding the hub/spindle on. You will have to pound the LCA with a hammer to break it loose. Then Remove the 17mm nut, and bolt from each side Strut Fork. then, take a prybar and pop the axles out. Refill whatever tranny fluid was spilled
Old 04-06-2003 | 11:41 AM
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I've been thinking of doing a writeup on this but I need a car to do it on and take pics of. I have a slightly different method than nogarobluecivic but it's similar in a lot of ways. In any case, It's relatively easy.

What you'll need:
  • 32mm axle nut socket
  • pointed punch or VERY strong screwdriver for undenting the axlenut (caution: most people and books recommnd against using screwdrivers because they aren't meant for this sort of thing and can break and cause injury.)
  • small prybar or that same strong screwdriver
  • rubber/plastic mallet/hammer
  • appropriate ratchet and the other sockets and stuff you usually use on the suspension
  • approriately sized breaker bar for the axlenut socket
  • a long enough bar to slip on the breaker bar to break the axlenuts free
  • tranny Fluid (Honda MTF or motor oil)
  • 2 new 32mm axlenuts
  • container for fluid to drain into

What you'll do:
  • If you've got wheel covers or centercaps on your wheels remove the front ones. This may involve removing the lugnuts and/or wheels first.
  • Bend the dent in the axlenut back with a punch or screwdriver (be careful of it breaking). This may involve removing the lugnuts and/or wheels first.
  • If you've removed the lugnuts and/or wheels, place them back on and tighten the wheels down and lower the car back to the ground.
  • Have a friend get in the car and step on the brakes while you...
  • Use the 32mm socket, breaker bar, and long slip on bar to break the axlenuts free.
  • Raise the front of the car and place it on jackstands. And block the rear wheels. Never work on a car supported only by a jack and that whole bit.
  • Remove your front wheels.
  • Drain the transmission fluid.
  • Undo the shock forks that connect the shock and the LCAs.
  • Remove the axlenuts.
  • Undo the upper control arm anchor bolts that hold it into the shock towers.
  • Use a rubber mallet to knock the axle out of the hub. Use a socket extension or something long to remove it the rest of the way.
  • Use the prybar or sturdy screwdriver on the tranny side of the axle to remove it from that section.
  • Remove the axle.
  • Put the new axle in the tranny side. Make sure it clicks. Be careful with the new axles and make sure not to pull on them or allow them to come apart. If they come apart, you'll have a heck of a time rebuilding them.
  • Put the new axle in the hub. This might be a little difficult because of the insertion angle but it's doable.
  • Reinstall the uppercontrol arms back onto the shock towers.
  • Put the new axlenut on.
  • Put the shock fork back on.
  • Torque everything down and bend the axlenut into the slot in the axle.
  • Pour in new tranny fluid.
  • Replace wheels and torque them down. Make sure you havent missed anything else and you're good to go.

Good luck!

My instructions are only to be used as a guide. Anyone who wants to follow them should still read up on the subject, be safe, and use a reasonable degree of caution.
Old 04-06-2003 | 11:46 AM
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Oh and about the grease, yeah, it's pretty difficult to get if off... I would try to get as much as you can off with rags and Simple Green degreaser.
Old 04-06-2003 | 11:50 AM
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wow thanks very much for that how to, very appreciated.
Old 04-06-2003 | 01:16 PM
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http://www.4bangercity.com/axlereplacement.html
Old 04-06-2003 | 02:18 PM
  #8  
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Originally posted by agent87
I've been thinking of doing a writeup on this but I need a car to do it on and take pics of. I have a slightly different method than nogarobluecivic but it's similar in a lot of ways. In any case, It's relatively easy.

What you'll need:
  • 32mm axle nut socket
  • pointed punch or VERY strong screwdriver for undenting the axlenut (caution: most people and books recommnd against using screwdrivers because they aren't meant for this sort of thing and can break and cause injury.)
  • small prybar or that same strong screwdriver
  • rubber/plastic mallet/hammer
  • appropriate ratchet and the other sockets and stuff you usually use on the suspension
  • approriately sized breaker bar for the axlenut socket
  • a long enough bar to slip on the breaker bar to break the axlenuts free
  • tranny Fluid (Honda MTF or motor oil)
  • 2 new 32mm axlenuts
  • container for fluid to drain into

What you'll do:
  • If you've got wheel covers or centercaps on your wheels remove the front ones. This may involve removing the lugnuts and/or wheels first.
  • Bend the dent in the axlenut back with a punch or screwdriver (be careful of it breaking). This may involve removing the lugnuts and/or wheels first.
  • If you've removed the lugnuts and/or wheels, place them back on and tighten the wheels down and lower the car back to the ground.
  • Have a friend get in the car and step on the brakes while you...
  • Use the 32mm socket, breaker bar, and long slip on bar to break the axlenuts free.
  • Raise the front of the car and place it on jackstands. And block the rear wheels. Never work on a car supported only by a jack and that whole bit.
  • Remove your front wheels.
  • Drain the transmission fluid.
  • Undo the shock forks that connect the shock and the LCAs.
  • Remove the axlenuts.
  • Undo the upper control arm anchor bolts that hold it into the shock towers.
  • Use a rubber mallet to knock the axle out of the hub. Use a socket extension or something long to remove it the rest of the way.
  • Use the prybar or sturdy screwdriver on the tranny side of the axle to remove it from that section.
  • Remove the axle.
  • Put the new axle in the tranny side. Make sure it clicks. Be careful with the new axles and make sure not to pull on them or allow them to come apart. If they come apart, you'll have a heck of a time rebuilding them.
  • Put the new axle in the hub. This might be a little difficult because of the insertion angle but it's doable.
  • Reinstall the uppercontrol arms back onto the shock towers.
  • Put the new axlenut on.
  • Put the shock fork back on.
  • Torque everything down and bend the axlenut into the slot in the axle.
  • Pour in new tranny fluid.
  • Replace wheels and torque them down. Make sure you havent missed anything else and you're good to go.

Good luck!

My instructions are only to be used as a guide. Anyone who wants to follow them should still read up on the subject, be safe, and use a reasonable degree of caution.
good write up

i forgot to include the tools needed i always use air tools, so is a bit easier with an impact gun
Old 04-06-2003 | 02:49 PM
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gas melts the grease like butter!!!!! i have powdercoated white wheels also and it didnt harm the finish whatsoever!
Old 04-06-2003 | 03:21 PM
  #10  
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dont get the grease on clothing, i think it'll perma-stain it



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