correct, the Type R subframes are reinforced from the factory to handle the bigger sway bar.

OEM 99 Si end links. The Beaks site recommends using the 99 Si end links with the beaks kit and ITR bar. The endlinks sit perfectly straight with no added stresses negative or positive with the setup. I have the links on the outer most mounting hole on the Skunk2 LCA's also to keep it at 22mm. Even with the Beaks kit I wouldn't dare move it in. I may if I find it necessary upgrade to the ASR subframe brace so I can move it in and make the bar basically a "26mm" rear bar. I still have to get Si front LCAs so I can run a front sway to get the car back to a bit more neutral.

I will say this after todays snow storm. If you put this setup on your car, BE VERY CAREFUL in the snow the first few times you drive. The ass is EXTREMELY happy and takes a minute to get used to.

 

looks good Lee.

 

I wish they made the LCA's out of wood :crazyr:

 

:werd: make the car oversteer like crazy

 

:lmao: you had to realize you were setting yourself up for that one

 

yeah I figured I would do the ITR bar while I was doing the rear GSR disk swap.

The front LCAs and sway will go on when I put the front GSR disk swap. I have it sitting, damn winter rims .

 

Speaking from experience, my friend ripped his subframe on his 00 civic coupe dx using the beaks kit/itr 22 rear sway bar. The right side just literally ripped off like a piece of paper, even tho the beaks kit is thick, it still puts alot of stress in that area. Since then, we replaced his subframe and run the asr brace now with no issues. Good luck and the car is looking good.

 

lee will be doing the same things.. just a matter of months before he nails a hard turn & rips his car apart!

ASR ftw

 

^^Damn^^

That's what I'm afraid of. :ugh:

 

what suspension was he running? The only people I know of that manage to rip them are people who aren't running a stiff enough supporting suspension, or not running a decent size front sway as it causes great body twist.