wrong....

 

You need to stop dispersing any more information on what you feel. An octane rating is only a fuel's resistance to resist detonation. A lower octane level will not cause valves to rattle, or foul plugs/wires.
The only way you could correlate gas mileage and octane rating is if an engine requires high octane such as 91, and you give it 87. The motor will retard its timing to prevent detonation. Retarding the timing, more so than not, will cause a performance loss and you will need more fuel to attain the same power you would have achieved if you had used a higher octane.

If you feel like you're entirely correct based on your "experience", then feel free to debate what i said and answer my questions: how would the valves rattle? would they rattle up and down? or laterally? how would a lower rating foul the plugs? would they end up cold? wet? glazed or overheated? How do you foul plug wires? How do you justify the worthiness of using a higher octane to get a "better burn" when the differance in BTU's between racing fuel (116 octane) and pump gas is only slight.

to the original poster: If your manufacturer recommends for 87 octane, then put in 87 octance. If you wish to "clean" your motor, there are plenty of additives available.
Kris

 

wait for it...wait for it.......

 

The only myth that has any truth was that lower octane fuel created engine "knock" and that is 100% true... in older carburated motors. They cannot as accurately regulate the air/fuel mix going into the engine as a computerized fuel injector. Carburetors need adjustment, as a part of regular maintenance, to keep the air/fuel mix as accurate as possible. So many times, these adjustments were not made regularly causing too much fuel to be mixed with the air. When this happened the gasoline would not burn completely soaking into carbon deposits. This would cause a premature ignition of the gasoline due to the intense heat in the engine cylinder creating "engine knock." When this happened, people would change to the higher octane/slower burning gasoline to resist the premature burn, thus minimizing the knocking problem. And it worked. Good solution. But now fuel injection and plain smarter engines has eliminated that need. And if you happen to see a small increase in MPG (I don't) it is negated by the higher price. Best bet is to do what they are all saying and use what is recommended.

 

In addition, all of the gasoline sold in the US is held to the same "Detergent" standaars. That is, all gas has the same cleaning additives. Premium does no more cleaning that regular does. To be honest, I pump mid grade in my civic with just intake/header/testpipe. Not necessary, but habit.

 

Ya thats true take it from sone one who knows. I mean all of us just found out what cars where yesterday so were all NOOBIES....

 

Well, thanks for the responses. Looks like I'll be sticking with the regular stuff.

 

Good choice

 

ROFL

 

That's not true either. Any fuel charge that is not below the lean flammability limit or above the rich flammability limit in composition can autoignite. As charge pressure increases, the ease of autoignition increases as well.