Well, changing an oil pump is a hell of a job. It involves removing the front case of the engine... several steps further than doing just a timing belt, and they usually last hundreds of thousands of miles if the car is serviced properly. 99.999% of the time, a car with 60k on it won't have any problems with the oil pump. If your oil pump is bad, it won't be leaking outside of the motor. You'll just have low oil pressure.

If your oil level is dropping, you're either leaking it out, or burning it. Is there any oil on the outside of the engine anywhere? You shouldn't have any at all with so few miles... 'cept maybe the distributor seal. Hondas eat those up like gravy.

If the engine's dry, replace your PCV setup to prevent excessive blow-by from your crankcase. If that doesn't fix it, do a compression test. If your compression numbers are low, that's where your oil's going.

If the engine's wet, start replacing seals from the top to the bottom starting with the valve cover gasket set, cam/crank/oil pump seals (when you do your timing belt), oil pan, and then... worst case scenario... rear main engine seal. Clean the engine off each time you replace something, so that it's dry and so you'll be able to see where it's leaking from. Do all of them with the timing belt job and you'll save lots of $.

Last and most painful possibility would be a head gasket or cracked head. Those are pretty easy to rule out with a compression test, and a radiator pressure test.

Best I can offer to help you out man...

 

EDIT: WTF Wonky browser behavior. Double-posterages... my bad.

 

Oh I thought you mean just checking it to check the pressure to make sure the pump is functioning correctly, not changing it. My oil pump stays until she dies, at which point I hope I receive advance notification so I can shut the engine off

 

I completely agree with Jafro. If some one asked me to take a look at their oil pump, I'd look dumbfounded aswell. If you're oil pump went out you would know it by the engine siezing up. By the indication of increasing temperatures, my guess would be a failed head gasket. Did you check your oil for a milk shake like substance?

 

C'mon guys. I didn't just ask the guy to look at my oil pump. I told him I need the 60k tune up, I ASKED HIM TO CHECK EVERYTHING. If I'm missing oil, the outside of the engine is dry, the coolant is clean, the oil is clean, and there's no smoke comming from the exhaust or icky smell, why would he even question my request to check the oil pump?

 

Like everyone said, your oil pump would be the last to go in your case. IF your oil pump did go bad, you wouldnt be driving your car right now or even got to the Honda dealer.

Your oil disappearing could be because of a few things. PCV valve/system, bad piston rings, bad valve seals, external leak (cam seal, oil filter, etc.)

Not trying to pile up on you...but I would of asked the same question...why? Because the oil pump would be the last conclusion I would come to if you are losing oil.

Best thing to do now...is do a compression test and leakdown. That will tell you where to go check for next.

 

By the way...how much oil are we talking about?

VTEC B-series motors are known to burn about 1/2 quart to 1 quart of oil between changes. VTEC generally will do that normally. Even the S2000 and RSX owners manuals for the F and K series motors will tell you to check your oil every time you fill up your gas.

 

Well, in 5 weeks I lost a quart. Now 3 weeks later another one is gone.

 

how do you drive? do you take it beyond 6200 rpm often? what is 5 weeks of driving for you? (daily commute?) how old or how many miles on that motor? it seems normal for that time period.


i lose 1 quart everytime i take it pass 6200 rpm. now that would be abnormal.

 

Are you leaving oil spots on the road where you park? Fill 'er up, drive it hard, then park it and see. Since I have a gravel driveway, I have a big roll of paper in my garage for just such a reason.

When I rebuilt my last civic, I managed to ruin my oil pan gasket by thinkin' I needed RTV on both sides of it. What can I say, I did that part of the re-assembly at 2 AM. I developed a HUGE leak from the oil pan gasket, and none of the rest of my engine ever got oily from it. It would spew every time I cut the car off from all the oil running back into the pan. Needless to say it got fixed quickly and I only RTV'd one side that time, but it was a weird leak.

If you're leaking from cam, oil pump, or crank seals, those are behind timing covers and pulleys, and you probably won't easily see them because they'll combine with dust, dirt and rubber particles inside the timing cover, and the excess will drip out the bottom of the cover behind your crank pulley. It's not likely you'll see that staring down into the engine bay. Those seals are only like $6 or $7 a piece and should ALL be changed when you do a timing belt job.