ok ok ok i was just wondering what the pros and cons of haveing a b20block w/ b18 head know i just wanted to know if it was it was a good set up or should i just go with the full gsr swap...?? thanxs in advance

 

Pro's it's bitchen, cons it's expensive.

 

:werd: its pretty expensive and it take a lot of know-how to get it right good luck, id do it.

 

what kind of horsepower am i looking at? has anyone done it yet

 

everyone uses different internals and such, but roughly i would look at the 200ish range if everything is done right and you use the best parts.

 

b20's share the same head as b18b,

If you put any dohc vtec b series head on it, you'll be looking at around 165whp in stock form, with gobs of maad torque. Problem being, it won't last for shit, maybe 15k miles max on a perfect tune and conservative redline.

Throw in some arp rodbolts and you'll be good to go.

Omniman's daily driver is a b20vtec, stock phk (b20z) pistons, and a few tricks to make some compression. He pulled 230whp

also I thought i'd mention, if you are in the market for a head, get a b18c1 GSR head. It'll give you a better compression ratio, which you will need.

Also, try to get the b20z, not the b20b.

And if you are lucky, try to find a b20 with a P8R head. It's got 84mm chambers, 33mm vtec size valves, and flows similar to a b16a head, but it's just rare and difficult to find. You can sell those for around 300-400

 

you could get a .137" longer rod and piston set that moves the ring pack closer to the pin, this would give you a 1:58 rs which is the same as a GSR or ITR. This ratio would improve the longevity of the motor while enabling you to rev it higher. The other thing I would suggest is to have the head chambers machined to match the bore diameters of the B20 so that any shrouding of the valves. would prevent blowing a head gasket. Some guys are making 280hp with 180ft.lbs. (unsleeved) with this combination.

 

how much money do you have for the project? perhaps then everyone can help suggest what to do.

 

What made you say that?

The frankenstein swaps can be made just as reliable as any other swap, given they are built correctly.

Frankenstein+ARP+a golden eagle cr/lsvtec kit , and itll be reliable all to hell, espescially if its maintaining the stock C/R and no forced induction.

The only problem with the B20's is the sleeving. If I was to expect any power out of a B20 I would definetly sleeve it.

 

that is the key phrase.

I'm talking stock block.

And also, nothing that is built is gonna be as good as oem reliability, period.

YOu build a motor to beat the shit outta it, not for longetivity.