A knocking noise would seem to be a rod to me...valves don't really knock, more of a tapping noise if they are bent or out of adjustment.

 

whoa sorry to hear that. wut city do u live in, im in elyria, OH

 

how do u turn the crank manually.. I've tried and had no luck..

 

knocking could be harsh enough to weld your crank to a main.(Harsh enough to put a hole in the block big enough to stick you hand in..) lol.... Main bearings are there to allow a good cushoin of oil to float the crank above the mains. With its gone that cusion is much much weaker because you don't have a nice flat surface for the oil to flow on. Then when you have some good metal to metal contact between the crank and a main, the rotational speed and immense frictional heat can cause them to weld together and completely freeze your engine within a matter of seconds.

Extensive wear of the bear bearing creates much play between the rod & crank, the rotational speed beats up on the rod & the connecting rod studs snaps fly at the side of the block & WAM you got a nice size hole lol. Ive experced this on different cars lol

You need to machine crank. Means romove motor & romove crank & get it machined, Replace damaged rod, Get over sized bearings

there is no cheap quick fix... for some reason your engine was fucked from age, poor build, oil starvation, whatever. If you do not properly machine the crank (it will be damaged) and replace EVERY main bearing (they most likely have some damage too from the stress a spun bearing causes) your engine WILL fail and you will have to get a new engine because yours will not be salvagable.

your internals are heavily damaged. Its knocking louder from the increase in clerence from rod to crank, it obvious now thats its got louder that the piston is now smacking the cylinder head

Wonder when the "My engine blew" thread is gonna appear.

 

I hate to put you in this position, but a knock at all means bad things. If it were me, I'd tear the thing back down and start over. The more you run it trying to diagnose the problem, the more you risk causing more problems and more expense with repair. A knock could be a great deal of things, but is mostly associated with rods. Sad day...

 

:werd: get a new block and check for damage on the head and valvetrain

 

Tore it apart tonight..

Cause of smoke = One Melted Piston & 3 Cracked Pistons
Cause of Knock = One missing rod bearing

I got screwed when i paid the 3500 for my engine It was Sleeved with a block guard in it.. it was supposed to be sleeved / block guard / Forged Pistons / Forged Rods / ARP head studs / Lightened & balanced Crank / ect. NONE of this BS was in there expecpt the sleeves & the block guard.. no wonder this happened.. anyways the sleeves look like they are still in good condition.. i'll be ordering some more internals as soon as i round up some cash & what not.. time for a beat down from the seller of the engine!

Thanks for all the help guys.. btw.. my head is fine & i'll get some pix up asap, i'm sure you guys would like to see my empty cylinders!

 

Wow. Tough news but fortunately you found the problems.

What are you going to do about the guy that sold it to you?

 

In the country..over here in West Virginia....We'd Kick his ass

 

Dahm Tony I feel your pain. You have been throw a shit load with that car. I thought you could'nt put a blockguard on a block that has sleves. :dunno: anyways, Good thing you found that problem. Better late then never I guess. See what you can do about getting some money back from the guy who sold it to you. Shit sucks but buck up and look foward. Nothing you can do now but start a new build.