I think you're probably better off just trying to balance out the rear with an anti-roll bar than removing the front anti-roll bar. You want to minimize the roll of the car as much as possible. Removing the front anti-roll bar is not only going to shift your lateral loading towards the rear, but it's going to cause your car to roll more and I've never heard of that being a good thing.

 

Thanks, Kestrel.

Since we're on the subject of roll... how much does a rear strut tower bar really help prevent chassis twist, and thus handling?

I'm planning on getting a front tower strut and I'm not even sure that will make that much difference... especially since I haven't yet changed or lowered the stock suspension. (But I do have lower profile tires/ bigger rims)

 

you can remove your front sway but then you would have to have something in the rear that is very thick to maximize your handling. you can go small/medium front and rear, small/small front and rear, big front nothing in rear or big rear nothing in front.

make sure if you get the big sways to get one that wont rip your subframe. but putting on an SI/GSR rear sway is very cheap and effective.

 

In general a stiffer chassis benefits you because there's less deflection of the tire patch under load. It gives the car a more "solid" feeling, which I think also helps the driver psychologically.

I don't really know how much it helps reduce twist, but since there are really no direct load paths between the shocks (which is where most of the force in suspension deflection comes through) I imagine it would help a lot. Whether or not you have a lowered suspension, a strut tower bar will help, and it's relatively inexpensive and easy to install.

 

Well, if he wants to balance out the car in terms of understeer and oversteer, and minimize roll at the same time, wouldn't he want to go with something mediumish in the front and little smaller in the rear?

 

 

Hey... so a GSR sway will fit my civic? (6th gen sedan ex)

 

yes it will. the front sway can fit but the bends are rather tight around the cat to where it will rub against the cat making a chirping sound. as for the rear all you need are the sway bar with endlinks mounting plates, bushings and D-brackets off the gsr. the bolts you can always use new ones.

 

Really? Even the rear endlinks are compatible?

Cuz new endlinks from the dealer cost $65 a piece!!

 

yes they're compatible. easy to install.