no it does not.. that is an aftermarket part

 

dang

 

I still have no clue where the sound is coming from.. The thing is, when i have my friend drive my car...I can't hear it from the outside, only from the inside.

I think it could be a vacuum leak or a bad seal somewhere. I have my timing advanced by 4 degrees and i replaced that hose from the head to the intake with filters .... the noise doesn't bother me too much...but one day i'll figure out what it is.

 

does anyone else have any input?

 

Ok the sound that you described that came from my car was because of a crack in my exhaust manifold on the downpipe. It started as the sound you described like a month ago but like recently it was getting bad with like metal chirping and such...went to a muffler shop and found out that it had cracks out the ying yang...replaced my whole exhaust manifold system and now it sounds quiet as a mouse...

check for vaccuum leaks , if not that , then what i did with the exhaust leak...can you smell exhaust from the engine bay when you reev real high? good luck man

 

If you're detonating because of increased compression caused by carbon deposits, and want to clean the carbon deposits from your combustion chamber, I have a trick. It works wonders. Like Easy-Off oven cleaner in a dirty engine bay kind of wonders... But this isn't a regular-maintenance kind of thing. This is a "I've been running pig rich and burning oil for 80k miles" kind of thing, usually reserved for cars with EGR problems or cars whose valves are stuck open from carbon deposits.

Don't believe me? Do this and test your compression before/after.

It's called Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner. Can be bought at any Dodge dealership for about $8 a can. Pointless to do this on a motor with less than 80k miles on it... Also good for older cars that haven' been driven for an extended period of time.

You need a shop vac (borrowed), straws (drinking kind, bigger ones are better), 3 cans of MCCC, 9 quarts of oil, a new oil filter, and a new set of spark plugs. WEAR GLOVES and EYE PROTECTION when working with MCCC. It's one of the strongest petroleum-based solvents I've ever seen. It instantly breaks down motor oil, and dissolves carbon on contact.

1. Pull the intake blow-by vacuum hose off of your intake.
2. With the engine FULLY WARMED UP running around 2500 RPMs (one hand on the throttle of the throttle body), spray one whole can into your intake through that vacuum nipple. You can pull the intake loose and spray it directly into the throttle body if you want (on a non-turbo car). You should see an enormous cloud of smoke come from the exhaust if you have carbon deposits in your engine.
3. Shut the car off
4. Pull the old spark plugs and keep them handy, you will need them again.
5. Spray a whole can in all 4 cylinders through the spark plug holes. Do the best you can to cover as much of the cylinder walls as possible. if it bubbles up into the spark plug tubes, that's a good thing.
6. Cover up the spark plug holes and let it sit for 24 hours.
7. Use the borrowed shop vac and several McDonalds drinking straws (they're the biggest ones from any fast food chain) to construct a makeshift vacuum that can reach down the spark plug holes. Insert the straws into eachother's ends, and hold one end near the shop vac tip. Place the other end into the combustion chamber and thoroughly vacuum out all the huge gritty chunks of carbon and MCCC. You'll see stuff come out of there that will scare you.
8. Once clean, reinstall the OLD spark plugs.
9. START the car, and DON'T give it gas. At all. Seriously. Let it warm up to operating temperature.
10. Turn the car off.
11. Change the oil leaving the old filter in place.
12. Start the car, let it warm up, take it for a short drive. Run it hard once. Using an oil-flush additive during the test drive won't hurt anything, either.
13. Change the oil AND filter again. Install the new plugs (propperly gapped)

...14. Unless you hate the guy you borrowed the vacuum from, wash it out thoroughly with a garden hose. Then appologize to him for its condition, and pick him up a newfilter and foam pad for it (Home Depot, Lowes...etc, etc...). For your sake, put that thing in a plastic bag afterwards if you're going to be driving it around in your car. The fumes from MCCC will mess you up, man. Windows down or not.

Go have fun. Your engine's spotlessly clean on the inside. This stuff is 10x stronger than BG 44K. Doing this before rebuilding an engine will also drastically reduce the amount of effort it takes to clean up your parts.

WARNING: Do not drive your car while MCCC is in the crankcase. You won't have the viscosity needed to protect your parts under load. Do exactly as the instructions say. Just make sure all additives are removed from the crankcase before driving.

I did this to my 105k old 4g63. It runs (and always has run) 1.17 volts off of the o2 sensor at WOT. That's 20% over pig-rich for all you non-tuners. Carbon city. 17,000 miles after I treated it, I pulled the engine apart, and all bearing surfaces were wear-free, the inside of the case wasn't discolored, and there were no carbon deposits in the combustion chamber. The EGR ports barely had any crud in them. My compression numbers went from 131 123 131 133, to 145 141 142 144.

Is this treatment safe on engines? I say yes. And it will certainly clean carbon out of everything excluding the Catalytic Converter.

 

wow, what a salesman.

I doubt it does anything more than the other products like seafoam, which i have used. And I aint putting some dodge crap in my engine, jk.

i dont know what a 105k is, but isnt a 4g63 a dsm? THanks for the tip though, next time dont make it such an obvious shameless plug.

 

I doubt it's a ping...if it was...by now your car would be crap?

I'm def, leaning towards exhaust leak..

 

yeah, you know i am starting to possibly agree, i think it may be my aftermarket crappy header... i'll look into it. thanks guys

 

Lol yea i had a crappy after market header too... I'm pretty sure that's it... ..