Motor Knockin'
11-04-2003 | 07:24 PM
#12
not OG but Old School
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,998
Likes: 0
From: Decatur, IN
no I spun 2 rod bearings in my s-10 and drove it off the trail I was 4 wheeling on, and then 30 miles home and then to auto shop in high school. It was fine until a certain RPM range and then it would knock like crazy but other than that you could barely tell anything was wrong.
11-04-2003 | 09:43 PM
#13
I'm made of meat!
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,580
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, VA
Originally posted by honura
I have a 95 civic "AUTO" nothing to hide !!!!!!!
I have a 95 civic "AUTO" nothing to hide !!!!!!!
It's a classic case of rod knock. The only other things that would make sounds like what you described is piston slap, and a bad hydraulic lash adjuster. Since Honda motors are solid lift (thus, they don't have HLA's), and your friend probably doesn't have forged pistons that slap when they're cold, it's rod knock. Do as hybridhondahatch stated and stop driving it. The next person that should hear it run is a mechanic if you're not going to fix it yourself. The more it runs, the less likely it can be salvaged.
Best case scenario: Have the crank turned if the damage is minor, and get oversized bearings for that rod. If several are scuffed, get a new shortblock. It would probably be less expensive than doing a bunch of machine work to just replace that shortblock.
The cams turn at half the speed of the crank, so while oil starvation could have damaged the head (and it should be inspected when you get it apart by pulling the cams so you can see the cam bearing surfaces and journals), it probably won't be as bad as the crank.
When inspecting the parts, remember that anything you can feel with your fingernail is BAD. He can have his block line-bored if it overheated and warped. You should also deck the head or block if the mating surfaces aren't flat. Check them with a (metal) straight edge in several directions to determine their flatness. You probably won't need to replace the whole motor. If he can get a whole motor cheaper than fixing it, then by all means, do it. Hondas/Acuras are easy to swap and it's a great learning experience. I bet after doing that, he'll check his oil every time he gets gas, and he'll change it regularly.
Average machine shop pricing:
Line Bore - $100
Bore and hone - $16 a hole
Turn crank - $15 per bearing surface
Deck head or block - $70
Add pistons, bearings, rings, seals, gaskets, and he's on his way. Most shops charge about $150 to assemble an engine, and they love to do it, because it's easy money. It's not that hard to do. Just make note of which bearings go where and which way they sit. The hardest part is getting the engine in-time, and that's pretty easy if it's out of the car.
This is why it's easier to just buy someone else's known good B18 shortblock for like $250-$350. That car's 14 years old. Tell him not to overdo it.
11-05-2003 | 07:07 AM
#14
Thread Starter
Seni
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,401
Likes: 0
From: N.Y. Queens
Originally posted by supermac88
no I spun 2 rod bearings in my s-10 and drove it off the trail I was 4 wheeling on, and then 30 miles home and then to auto shop in high school. It was fine until a certain RPM range and then it would knock like crazy but other than that you could barely tell anything was wrong.
no I spun 2 rod bearings in my s-10 and drove it off the trail I was 4 wheeling on, and then 30 miles home and then to auto shop in high school. It was fine until a certain RPM range and then it would knock like crazy but other than that you could barely tell anything was wrong.
Originally posted by Jafro
I know. Notice I was quoting someone else. I swear, this brake fluid....
It's a classic case of rod knock. The only other things that would make sounds like what you described is piston slap, and a bad hydraulic lash adjuster. Since Honda motors are solid lift (thus, they don't have HLA's), and your friend probably doesn't have forged pistons that slap when they're cold, it's rod knock. Do as hybridhondahatch stated and stop driving it. The next person that should hear it run is a mechanic if you're not going to fix it yourself. The more it runs, the less likely it can be salvaged.
Best case scenario: Have the crank turned if the damage is minor, and get oversized bearings for that rod. If several are scuffed, get a new shortblock. It would probably be less expensive than doing a bunch of machine work to just replace that shortblock.
The cams turn at half the speed of the crank, so while oil starvation could have damaged the head (and it should be inspected when you get it apart by pulling the cams so you can see the cam bearing surfaces and journals), it probably won't be as bad as the crank.
When inspecting the parts, remember that anything you can feel with your fingernail is BAD. He can have his block line-bored if it overheated and warped. You should also deck the head or block if the mating surfaces aren't flat. Check them with a (metal) straight edge in several directions to determine their flatness. You probably won't need to replace the whole motor. If he can get a whole motor cheaper than fixing it, then by all means, do it. Hondas/Acuras are easy to swap and it's a great learning experience. I bet after doing that, he'll check his oil every time he gets gas, and he'll change it regularly.
Average machine shop pricing:
Line Bore - $100
Bore and hone - $16 a hole
Turn crank - $15 per bearing surface
Deck head or block - $70
Add pistons, bearings, rings, seals, gaskets, and he's on his way. Most shops charge about $150 to assemble an engine, and they love to do it, because it's easy money. It's not that hard to do. Just make note of which bearings go where and which way they sit. The hardest part is getting the engine in-time, and that's pretty easy if it's out of the car.
This is why it's easier to just buy someone else's known good B18 shortblock for like $250-$350. That car's 14 years old. Tell him not to overdo it.
I know. Notice I was quoting someone else. I swear, this brake fluid....
It's a classic case of rod knock. The only other things that would make sounds like what you described is piston slap, and a bad hydraulic lash adjuster. Since Honda motors are solid lift (thus, they don't have HLA's), and your friend probably doesn't have forged pistons that slap when they're cold, it's rod knock. Do as hybridhondahatch stated and stop driving it. The next person that should hear it run is a mechanic if you're not going to fix it yourself. The more it runs, the less likely it can be salvaged.
Best case scenario: Have the crank turned if the damage is minor, and get oversized bearings for that rod. If several are scuffed, get a new shortblock. It would probably be less expensive than doing a bunch of machine work to just replace that shortblock.
The cams turn at half the speed of the crank, so while oil starvation could have damaged the head (and it should be inspected when you get it apart by pulling the cams so you can see the cam bearing surfaces and journals), it probably won't be as bad as the crank.
When inspecting the parts, remember that anything you can feel with your fingernail is BAD. He can have his block line-bored if it overheated and warped. You should also deck the head or block if the mating surfaces aren't flat. Check them with a (metal) straight edge in several directions to determine their flatness. You probably won't need to replace the whole motor. If he can get a whole motor cheaper than fixing it, then by all means, do it. Hondas/Acuras are easy to swap and it's a great learning experience. I bet after doing that, he'll check his oil every time he gets gas, and he'll change it regularly.
Average machine shop pricing:
Line Bore - $100
Bore and hone - $16 a hole
Turn crank - $15 per bearing surface
Deck head or block - $70
Add pistons, bearings, rings, seals, gaskets, and he's on his way. Most shops charge about $150 to assemble an engine, and they love to do it, because it's easy money. It's not that hard to do. Just make note of which bearings go where and which way they sit. The hardest part is getting the engine in-time, and that's pretty easy if it's out of the car.
This is why it's easier to just buy someone else's known good B18 shortblock for like $250-$350. That car's 14 years old. Tell him not to overdo it.
Well we can get a motor at the junk yard for about $300-350 off a friend that works there . But you never know what the F*** could be wrong with it or how badly it was beat . I would like to pull his motor out myself and have it rebuilt but I think that will cost more then $300 $350 you know what I mean ? I wish I had someone who would be able to help me . I live in N.Y. city if anyones willing to help me rebuild it holla !
11-05-2003 | 07:16 AM
#15
One of the original OG's
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,429
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, Texas
That's what your dumbass friend gets for not checking his oil. It would be different if the oil pump went out and he could'nt help it but just driving around without no oil is just plain retarded. Expensive lesson learned. Just get in and drive right? Idiot. He's not worthy of that Honda.
11-05-2003 | 07:52 AM
#16
Thread Starter
Seni
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,401
Likes: 0
From: N.Y. Queens
Originally posted by Redcivic
That's what your dumbass friend gets for not checking his oil. It would be different if the oil pump went out and he could'nt help it but just driving around without no oil is just plain retarded. Expensive lesson learned. Just get in and drive right? Idiot. He's not worthy of that Honda.
That's what your dumbass friend gets for not checking his oil. It would be different if the oil pump went out and he could'nt help it but just driving around without no oil is just plain retarded. Expensive lesson learned. Just get in and drive right? Idiot. He's not worthy of that Honda.
Well he got the car a 3 weeks ago when he registered the car the oil was fine 4 days later no oil . No leaks no nothing . You tell me what went wrong ?
11-05-2003 | 11:12 AM
#17
for that added pep
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 0
From: greensburg PA
just try and get a warenty, i have a 6 month warenty, good thing cause the first one they gave me was junk.
the knocking doesnt have to be constant, and you dont have to experience a loss of power, i know i didnt. the easiest way to tell is to drop the oil pan and see if there are small bronze'ish colored thin chunks, if they are there, than its a bearing.
and if it wasnt leaking, he prolly burnded it all up, although 4 quarts in 4 days is pretty excessive........
take it from someone w/ experience, not someone who knows a guy who had a friends sister that experienced it.
the knocking doesnt have to be constant, and you dont have to experience a loss of power, i know i didnt. the easiest way to tell is to drop the oil pan and see if there are small bronze'ish colored thin chunks, if they are there, than its a bearing.
and if it wasnt leaking, he prolly burnded it all up, although 4 quarts in 4 days is pretty excessive........
take it from someone w/ experience, not someone who knows a guy who had a friends sister that experienced it.
11-05-2003 | 12:01 PM
#18
Thread Starter
Seni
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,401
Likes: 0
From: N.Y. Queens
Originally posted by hybridhondahatch
just try and get a warenty, i have a 6 month warenty, good thing cause the first one they gave me was junk.
the knocking doesnt have to be constant, and you dont have to experience a loss of power, i know i didnt. the easiest way to tell is to drop the oil pan and see if there are small bronze'ish colored thin chunks, if they are there, than its a bearing.
and if it wasnt leaking, he prolly burnded it all up, although 4 quarts in 4 days is pretty excessive........
take it from someone w/ experience, not someone who knows a guy who had a friends sister that experienced it.
just try and get a warenty, i have a 6 month warenty, good thing cause the first one they gave me was junk.
the knocking doesnt have to be constant, and you dont have to experience a loss of power, i know i didnt. the easiest way to tell is to drop the oil pan and see if there are small bronze'ish colored thin chunks, if they are there, than its a bearing.
and if it wasnt leaking, he prolly burnded it all up, although 4 quarts in 4 days is pretty excessive........
take it from someone w/ experience, not someone who knows a guy who had a friends sister that experienced it.
Yeah man Thanks alot . Im gonna see what I do Im trying to find a garage just so we can work on our cars but around here everything is expensive as shit ! Thanks for all the help !
