Thanks 5G, but I'm way ahead of you. I am, after all, on my third RX-7.

The Sport package is five lug, not many people talk about the Sport because it was only produced in relitively low numbers in '86 and '87. It was replaced by the GTU in '88, however the GTU dropped down to the base model in '89 with the GTUs taking the Sport's old spot. The GTUs is extremely rare, however. Anyway, that's why I have my Sport, it has all of the good (five lug, four pot calipers, sway bars, sport suspension, etc) and none of the bad (rear wiper, extra lights, storage bins, power steering, cruise, AAS, etc.)

I am keeping the stock N/A drivetrain, because it is lighter and I have yet to find someone who can prove it is nessicary to use a TII drivetrain. A lot of people will give you an earful of "oh, my friend's friend's sister's bother's mechanic said" kind of reasons. I know a guy who runs a TII turbo setup on an N/A engine, with an N/A drivetrain with no problems. Put in a good clutch, and you're done. The weight savings is pretty substantial, too.

As for the other stuff, I'm using a lovely slurry of US and Jap spec parts, a walbro pump, and a Volvo 740 front mount to keep it looking stock.

 

Yeah, I'd say definitly get rid of that top mount and emmisions junk right off the bat.

Anyway Jafro, keep it a sleeper look. My friend has a 91 civic hatch with some primered fenders and missing moldings on his car. But he also has a B16 with an Ls trans and home made turbo with intercooler. He put a hurtin on a brand new Evo tonight. You just never know whats under the hood of one of these bad boys.

Maybe you should use them DSM parts and turbo yours too.

 

I thought about that. I think a 14 second hatch would be sufficient, though. I don't want to blow fuel economy out of the water because I already have 1 turbo car, and it's getting a 7-angle valve job, JE pistons and Eagle rods today. I'm not expecting a LS swapped civic to ever touch what this thing's going to do even though it's 1300lbs lighter. I'm shooting for 450hp at 22-24 PSI.

What does GTU stand for, anyway? Grand Touring Unit? That designation has always bugged the crap out of me. :dunno: A lot of DSM PPL use RX-7 wheels because the lug pattern is the same, they're wide as fawk, and DSMers are cheap bastards. The offset is different though. You have to use spacers to do it.

So your friend's '91 hatch runs better than a 13.8? Impressive! It's not easy to flog an EVO. Especially if the EVO driver knows how to launch. That's definitely a good kill.

 

B18B1

B = B-Series Block
18 = 1.8L
B1 = Head Designation

B1 and A1 are different heads

 

Oh. its fast as fawk. He's using a "custom" manifold (read ghetto fabulous homemade), 1st gen eclipse TDO5, intercooler, 440cc injectors, a blitz ss bov, wastegate set at 10psi, and some more "custom" piping. It has some major traction probs. Shifting from 1st to 2nd feels like its about to rip the front end out as much wheel hop as it has. I rode in his ls/vtec 5th gen that runs 14.7's just two days before he did this, and this hatch feels way way faster.

 

I don't get it, why did he do an LS/VTEC? He would have been mid 14's with a stock GSR swap.

 

Just to be different. He first had a gs-r swap, then b20 vtec, then the ls/vtec, and then stock motor. which is when i bought the car. And he sold the ls/vtec to a friend, and thats the car i rode in. He finds some hella deals on motors, so he just plays with whatever he wants.

 

No, they're not. Trust me. The B18A/B and B20B/Z heads are all the same basic PR4 design with slight variations in cam profile and intake manifolds. The ports, combustion chambers, and other casting features are identical in all four of them.

 

Then where did Honda come up with 12 extra horses from the A1 to the B1?

 

The difference was only 2 horsepower from the 140hp 92-93 B18A1 to the 142hp 94-95 B18B1. A slight change in fuel maps will easily give 2 flywheel (about 1.5 wheel) horsepower. A slight cam profile change will give similar results.