The check engine light came on so I checked it with the scanner, it read P1166 and P1167 as the code. According to the code it is Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Heater Circuit Malfunction and Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Heater System Malfunction. I was told that it was related to the O2 so I bought a new O2 and replaced it, then cleared the code. Well after about 2-3 minutes the code P1167 comes back on, and I reset it again and it keeps coming back on. Could someone please help me with this. thanks

 

what do you have for mods? and what year is your accord?

 

depending on the year, your car will have 2 O2 sensors. Otherwise it could be a blown fuse. The heater circuit on these cars IS fused.

 

I have a 98 accord EX 4 cyl. I changed the bottom one already and its not causing any problems. The code was specifically for the primary O2 before the cat. Where is the fuse for the heater circuit and what voltage is it? Wouldn't the light come back one right away after it was cleared if the fuse was blown? All I have for mods is a Short ram.

 

how is your air filter? if you still have a stock a filter check it. I'd also recommend getting some fuel injector cleaner and running that thru.

 

The filter is pretty good. The code says that the heater system is manfuncting. Is there anything else that could cause the code P1167 to pop out? I will run a bottle of injection cleaner and see what happens but I don't think it's that since it said Air Fuel Ratio. Please help me.

 

can anyone help me with this. I really need to get this thing sorted out because I get horrible gas mileage with the light on.

 

I contacted KidFuzion and he told me that he solved the problem by buying a new O2 sensor from Honda. I did the same and it solved the problem also. Just wanted to update this thread with the new info.
P1167 and P1166 codes relate to the primary O2 sensor heater malfunction.
I tried two different O2 sensors, a "universal" sensor from Autozone and a supposedly OEM sensor from O'Reilly's. Both of them caused the car to throw a P1167 code and run rough. I finally purchased a O2 sensor from Honda, and it fixed the problem. It turns out that none of the aftermarket probes from Bosch or Denso will work on a ULEV (F23A4) 4 cyl. engine. Honda had different part number probes for the normal VTEC 4 cyl. and the ULEV Vtec engine and the probes look different and have different length cables. The computers at O'Reilly's, Autozone, or NAPA made no distinction between these two engine types.

 

Because this thread helped me, I thought I would post with my experience: hopefully, it will help someone else.

My car is a 2002 Honda CR-V 4WD (i-vtec engine). Anyway, the check engine light came on and a code reader read p1166 and p1167. This code denotes a problem with the upstream O2 sensor or its wiring. Trying to save money, $61 vs. $260 OEM, I bought the Bosch Universal O2 sensor (part #15730). This is the part specified on the Bosch website and all the part stores I went to. After installing the check engine light remained on and the car ran rough with a little lifter chatter. I had the code read again it it specified p1167. After reading the post by ehudson and kidfuzion, I bought the OEM sensor from the dealership the next morning. After installing this and removing the negative battery terminal for about 15 minutes, the car ran very smoothly and the check engine light was gone and has not returned.

I have a theory as to why it didn't work. It was wired correctly, so rule that out. I think that, as others have explained, the Bosch #15730 sensor is the wrong part , eventhough, as I mentioned, the parts stores have it as an acceptable alternative for the OEM upstream/primary O2 sensor in a 2002 Honda CR-V. My thinking, as I believe others is, is that the motor is K24A4 and not K24A1, as parts stores and Bosch indicate, for this make and model year, which would make the upstream/ before cat Bosch universal for this application #15733 instead of #15730 ( I am not a Honda tech-y guy so I have no idea how to tell which number my vechicle's motor is. If anyone has any way to find out, I'll try and identify it so as to improve the quality of information about this apparent problem with what is displayed by part stores, etc., in terms of non-OEM O2 sensors on this and similar vechicles). It should also be noted that I did not try the Bosch sensor made to specifically replace upstream sensor(#13706) because it is cost comparable to Honda part ($20-$30 price difference).

I know others have explained this thoroughly, but I haven't seen anyone experience this problem with a CR-V. Hopefully, this post helps someone and maybe we can figure out the exact reason these non-OEM sensors don't work properly (I am sure it is unrelated to quality of part construction).

Keywords for search: Honda CR-V Bosch Universal O2 Sensor CRV p1167 p1166

 

[QUOTE=KiDFuZioN;1762384]I have a 98 accord EX 4 cyl. I changed the bottom one already and its not causing any problems. The code was specifically for the primary O2 before the cat. Where is the fuse for the heater circuit and what voltage is it? Wouldn't the light come back one right away after it was cleared if the fuse was blown? All I have for mods is a Short ram.[/QUOTE

I also have the same exact year and make honda. I just replaced the o2 sensor with a botch part, now the check engine light is coming and my car was jerking like the transmission was going bad but now when I drive it is not jerking at all. Do you think that I'm going to have to spend 180 dollars to buy a new sensor? The code I'm getting is p1167and p1381